P R E S S R E V I E W
"Didier is a giant, both physically and in terms of his culinary skills. In my opinion he will soon be a Michelin three-star cuisinier."
"The most romantic luxury destination in France."
La Belle France (April 1999)
"Luxury Destination : The Literary High Life"
"In sleepy little
Romorantin-Lanthenay, most inns capitalize on the village's central Loire Valley location
by emphasizing its proximity to the great châteaux and by
playing up the tourist's typical fascination with royal excess.
Marie-Christine and Didier Clément of the Grand Hôtel du Lion d'Or
opt for a completely different approach. Almost all brochures for the hotel prefer to
situate the village squarely in the Sologne, a rustic district that is one of the last
great hunting and fishing frontiers of France. The marshes and woodlands of the Sologne
have their appeal... but this geographical subset of the Loire Valley is remarkably low on
flash and glamour. We can safely assume taht the Clément's are making a statement about
their priorities.
Of course, Romorantin-Lanthenay does have historic connections to the
French crown. François 1, the most enlightened and artistic of all French monarchs, grew
up there. He liked it so much that he asked his friend, Leonardo da Vinci, to design a
castle in Romorantin-Lanthenay for his mother in 1517.
This proposed palace would surely have been one of the great
architectural wonders of the Loire. Leonardo envisioned a structure spanning the arms of
the Sauldre River and planned to assemble it with prefabricated units. Alas, the project
was cancelled when Louise de Savoy died. nonetheless, one of François's contemporaries,
Jean Gitton, did erect a major Renaissance mansion in the center of town. After the
Revolution, the building became a postal relay and hotel. Today, the ancient Grand Lion
d'Or flies the Relais & Châteaux banner.
One could imagine taht the intellectual spirit of François I's court
still holds sway in Romorantin-Lanthenay. Upon entering the Lion d'Or, one immediately
notices the great number of books piled on the tables and stacked on the shelves. These
books are not mere decorative accompaniments to monogrammed bathrobes and champagne
flutes. All were written by our very hosts. The carefully researched, imaginatively
conceived tomes track, through literary excerpts and vorrespondence, the culinary
philosophies (and favorite recipes) of authors George Sand, Colette, and Madame de Ségur.
Edited by Albin Michel with atmospheric photographs by André Martin, the books are on
sale in the hotel.
In fact, the book theme even makes its way into the bedrooms. This is
the only château that we have eyer visited taht presents
complimentary paperbacks on the bed tables - a very nice touch for travelers. The two
choices present local themes : Le Grand Meaulnes by Alain-Fournier
is a classic, right-of-passage book for French high-school students ; Maurice Genevoix's Raboliot
tells a robust tale about poachers in the Sologne.
Each of the sixteen guest rooms has a distinct personnality. Some must
be classified as ultra-romantic. Number 17 is a sumptuous garden double with a nearly
psychedelic array of pink-and-mint, trompe-l'oeil marble for 1
700 F (300 U.S. dollars). The Lion d'Or courtyard - with its white wrought-iron balconies,
flowing wisteria and orange blossom - is a Renaissance jewel box with a touch of the New
Orleans Garden District.
By candlelight, the dining room becomes a glistening banquet hall. The
charm of the personnel and the delights of the menu, not to mention the rosy glow of the
effervescent Champagne-and-Campari house cocktail, set the stage for a magical evening.
In such a setting, one longs for the descriptive gift of George Sand.
How can one affix a label to a dish as sublime as Didier Clément's fleur de
courgette ? The translucent, golden petals of the zucchini flower are
wrapped around a delicate stuffing of the sweetest possible shredded crabmeat. The whold
creation is so supernaturally light that it nearly levitates off the plate. And yet,
Clément's miracle working has hardly begun. the smoothness of his duck's foie
gras is underlined by a hint of licorice. Fresh cod is cooked bohemian
style : baked with an earthy band of bacon, served with a hearry sauce
thickened with potato and a soupçon of garlic, and adorned with
a harlequin pattern of red, yellow, and green pepper.
The wine confirmed the evening as a special event, although we should
stress that this is not the place to spend 500 dollars on rare Burgundy. Describing the
simple wines of the Loire Valley, Marie-Christine Clément displays the knowledge, joy,
and passion of a true connoisseur. Her emotive ability allowed us to practically see the
grapes growing on the wine. Rather than directing us to expensive vintages, she suggested
a bottle of 1996 Savennières from Pierre Soulez for 160 F (28 dollars) that held up to
the demands of Didier Clément's distinctive two-star cuisine. the bottle of 1996
Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil Vieilles Vignes "Les Graviers", which costs 200 F (34
dollars) proved the ideal accompaniment for the delicious goat's milk cheese made at
Selles-sur-Cher, only seventeen kilometers west of Romorantin-Lanthenay.
The sample wine prices should not give the impression that dining at
the Lion d'Or is anything resembling a bargain. An à la carte dinner for two before wine
will cost at least 1.100 F (195 dollars). Prix fixes menus are
available for 430 F and 630 F (76 dollars and 112 dollars). The Lion d'Or is rather
formal, grown-up venue, but anyone bringing children should note that there is a marvelous
playground within walking distance that features an extraordinary trampoline-style,
air-mattress replica of a Medieval château."
Grand Hôtel du Lion d'Or : cuisine, 18 ; decor, 16 ; service, 18 ; wine list, 17 ; value,
18 ; total : 87."
"What is the perfect recipe for a gastronomic visit to France ? Beautiful surrounding countryside rich in produce ? A kitchen where tradition is fused with talent and innovation ? An old town, steeped in history, yet retaining an everyday character, with bakeries, a butcher or two, hardware stores and a haberdasher ? Or a family-run hotel with a good wine cellar, built up by a wine lover with a total lack of pretension ?
For many years now I have heard about Le Lion d'Or in Romorantin, south of Orléans, and my husband Tom and I finally went there recently. It more than lived up to its reputation.
The Barrat family started Le Lion d'Or some 36 years ago, and their daughter, Marie-Christine, married to the chef Didier Clément, helps them at weekends. Otherwise, she is engaged in her primary task of culinary literature and research. She has written several books, especially about the food of the Sologne and its traditions, notably Sologne gourmande, published by Albin Michel.
She and her husband are delightful, thought-provoking and intelligent company. And this is mirrored in Clément's cooking. He uses seasonal produce, particularly little-known herbs in the summer, and 'forgotten' vegetables in the winter. They spend much time sourcing produce.
Didier Clément's desserts, and they are his, not
those of a chef pâtissier, are equally seasonal and immensely inventive. At the same
time, as with the rest of his cooking, they retain an innate harmony and simplicity"
(Frances Bissel).
"A wonderful hotel which makes a serious commitment to the pleasure of the traveller". "Super". So write visitors in 1997 to this handsome old city castle "hotel particulier" built in the 16th century which belongs to the Relais et Châteaux. Smart and Stylish, in a market town in the wide Sologne forest, south of Orléans, amid Alain-Fournier country, among the most beautiful Loire Valley castles (Chambord, Cheverny, Chenonceaux).
It is owned and run by Colette and Alain BARRAT and their daughter, Marie-Christine, whose brilliant husband, Didier CLEMENT, wins two Michelin Stars plus 4 Gault-Millau toques and 18 out of 20 for his cuisine.
Most bedrooms are set round a splendid
flower-decked courtyard. "Terrific service. Wonderful food, including frogs'legs,
langoustines and game. Excellent advice on wine. A wood fire in the lounge. Our room had a
lovely view of country and old tiled roofs, and some pleasing luxuries. A copy of Le
Grand Meaulnes by our bedside". "Breakfast in our room was
spectacular". "The reception rooms are stunning, with floor-to-ceiling mirrors,
enchanting flower arrangements, and a lit candelabra on the grand piano. The dining room
has 18th century panelling, sparkling silverware, and a giant low-slung
chandelier. The family owners make a fine team, and their staff are very stylish".
Wine and Food guide to the Loire, Jacqueline Friedrich
"This is the best restaurant in the Loire Valley. Didier Clément's menu is exciting - everything is finely conceived, finely tuned, masterly. One example : Saddle of hare in a sweet-sour-sauce, garnished with root chervil and figs, was the finest game dish I've ever eaten. The flavor was haunting ; Tuscan in balance, finesse, and modernity. With a bite of ripe fig, it was voluptuous and decadent, evoking ancient hunt scenes in châteaux. Excellent Loire (and other) wines. The deft service is overseen by Clément's mother-in-law and by his wife, who is also a cookbook author."
Richard Binns, author of French Leave, a french guide lovers to France, has recently asked his readers what were their favorite places in France among the years.
We have been honored to be chosen by more than 3 000 persons as their favorite hotel and restaurant in France. Articles on this subject will be held in the britannic press in the next coming weeks. (August 1999).
"The Lion d'Or, judging from my
visits over several years, is the best restaurant in the Loire Valley. Exemplary in every
sense of the word, it fully merits its two Michelin stars. Service is perfect, under the
direction of Marie-Christine Clément, who runs the restaurant that her parents started
(and where they still work). The setting is luxurious, a 17th-century carriage
house updated with plush carpets and smoked mirrors and the occasional magnificent
flourish, like a stupendous chandelier with real candles and a luxuriant bouquet of fresh
flowers. And the food, prepared by Didier Clément, the chef, is exquisite, starting with
a profusion of amuse-bouches : a slice of excellent hare terrine, for example, a saucer of
fricassed girolles and a tray of canapés.
Mrs Clément, who has written several cookbooks, featuring her husband's recipes,
obviously enjoys explaining the history of a sauce or a particular preparation. She
cautioned us that her husband's risotto was not classic. In fact, it was mostly wild rice
- wild rice from heaven. Brightened with zests of orange and lemon, it showcased fat,
perfectly cooked langoustines. The whole sat on a sauce of langoustine stock surrounded by
a drizzle of excellent vinaigrette. It was endlessly appetizing, a succession of
brilliant, clear flavors.
I can't think of the last time I've seen a vol-au-vent (a puff pastry shell) on an
up-to-the-minute French menu. So it was with pleasure mixed with curiosity that I ordered
Mr Clément's version. What a treat ! The puff pastry was light as air and encased a heap
of girolles seasoned with chives and bathed in a deep, woodsy sauce. On top of it was a
slice of juicy foie gras.
Mr. Clément has a way with game. His saddle of hare in a sweet-and-sour sauce, sampled
several years ago, was the finest game dish I could remember. On this visit, the saddle of
hare was again stellar. A portion for two, it was tender as butter and complemented by a
tasty sauce smitane, a blend of hare stock and crème fraîche. Excellent peppery
noisettes of venison came on a lightly sweet-tart sauce made from unsugared grape jam and
were accompanied by beets, pearl onions and the unusual sweet-tart physalis peruviana,
also known as cape gooseberry. In addition to their individual garnishes, main courses
came with souffléd potatoes as delectable as Joël Robuchon's mashed potatoes.
You can order a single dessert, but Mr. Clément prefers to concoct an assortment of
three. Ours consisted of individual chocolate soufflés served with praline ice cream, an
intriguing gingerbread soup garnished with cardamom and coffee cream, and a wonderful
combination of fig ice-cream, cream of date sauce, toasted almonds and pistachios.
The wine list at Lion d'Or is superb. Two excellent options are the 97 Saumur blanc
Château de Villeneuve, les Cormiers, a resonant white with rich, ripe fruit and mellow
flavors of oak that was brilliant with the langoustines ; and the 96 Chinon Côteau de
Noiré from Philippe Alliet, a fine-grained, deeply fruity red."
